Sunday, July 31, 2011

Week one (already?!)



A whole week has passed. Wow. I can already tell this semester is going to go by way faster than I'd like it to. Nonetheless, I think I'm making the most of it. I have sizable blisters on both my feet to prove my dedication to getting to know this city. I've thought about the things that have stood out most in this city, so here's my little "recap" of the week:
1) There is graffiti everywhere. There are serious protests going on currently throughout the city and it seems no surface has escaped the angry spray cans of the angsty student protesters. The majority of it has been "tags" but there has also been some really cool and artistic mural pieces, particularly in Bellavista.
2) The cold. Ugh. So f***ing cold. Ask anyone who is close to me, I NEVER have cold hands. My circulation usually rocks but somehow the Chilean cold has got me down to the bone.
3) When it rains, it pours. Being from Seattle I thought I knew rain but apparently not. These rains are more like torrential downpours leaving rivers and lakes throughout the city.
4)The vastness of the city. Before about Wednesday I couldn't pinpoint a "downtown" until we stumbled upon the sort of hidden Plaza de Armas. My school is about five blocks away and is a bit of tourist trap but lovely with beautiful architecture. About six million people live in Santiago (a large percentage of the countries total population) which contributes to the expansiveness. Each "communa" or neighborhood seems to have it's own little downtown, making it feel like there are many cities within the larger city.
5) Mix of old and new. You can rarely walk down a street and not see an old, dilapidated building next to a shiny new one. Very few of these 100+ year old buildings have not been maintained (which is a serious shame) and it seems new businesses have surrounded and pushed out the old.
6) The mountains. You get it, I love them. They're everywhere.
7) The alcohol. No worries friends and family, I have not become an alcoholic in the past week but I have to say the wine is pretty delicious and extremely well priced. A drink that's not so great, a "terremoto" or earthquake. White wine, rum, and pineapple ice cream. I'm glad I tried it, I can check it off my list, but damn...it was intense and something I don't need to order again for awhile.
8) Public transportation. Great, great, great. A fabulous system that makes the city not seem quite so big.
9) Automatic coffee. I know I'm a coffee snob but damn how I crave some Bauhaus/Cafe Vita/Ladro/Kaladi coffee. The majority of the cafes here use Nescafe machines and it's getting a little grim.
10) The friendliest people in the world. The people have definitely been the highlight of this last week. My family is the best, it truly feels like a nest when I return to the apartment everyday. Chiqui and Miro are doing the best job taking care of me (and speaking slowly). Chileans will strike up conversations in almost any place, not to creep on me and my fellow blue-eyed gringos, but because they are sincerely interested in where we're from and what we're up to. Always willing to help, even if I can't understand what they're saying.

After reading over what I wrote I think some of it sounds negative. THERE HAS BEEN NOTHING BAD THUS FAR. I love it here. It just might be nice if it wasn't so cold (thank you Andes) and if the government allocated more funds for education and building maintenance.

More adventures to come!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

El silencio

This is the first time I've been alone in a long while and it feels great. Not to say I don't love my fellow AU compatriots and especially not to say I don't REALLY love the Chilean people, but being in your own space when your surrounded by millions of people everyday feels pretty good. Although I do spend about an hour every day getting from the apartment to school and back I find my gears constantly turning trying to take in and observe all this new stuff. I also feel that it's not just my eyes that are doing a lot of the work, but also my ears. At the end of the day I'm more tired than usual because my brain and ears are on overdrive trying to translate, formulate, and decipher everything that's being said to me and what I'm trying (and failing) to say to others.

Spanish is hard, but I can already feel myself getting better. My "mom" talks A LOT so whenever I can interject I try. She politely corrects me and is always willing to help. I love it here thus far...except all of the United States influences. I understand that it's part of life and globalization but I almost feel guilty when I'm on the bus and we pass a McDonalds; it's like all the other passengers are staring at me saying, "why did you dump these grease buckets in our country?!" Obviously it's not my fault (plus I'm a vegetarian!) but let's face it, I stand out a little and already feel like I'm being stared at...the blue eyes give me away.

All is well, I would write more but my brain needs to be silent for a little bit before mama y papa come home.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Who needs technology when you have a big Chilean family?

Oy. The cell phone my family gave me didn't have "un chip" so I wasn't able to get a hold of any other gringos today. Not to mention my adapter wasn't working so I got away from the horrible/wonderful FACEBOOK...but I'm thinking it was for the better. I haven't had this much time to chill out, nap, read, write, draw, in a very long time.

Yesterday my best bud Steven and I met up in Los Dominicos, a pueblito in the city. It had tons of little crafts, art, ceramic, wool sweaters, and cafes--a great place for me to find trinkets for family members before I return. After grabbing a bite, Steven and I ventured onto the metro. Wow. The Chilean metro is beautiful, clean, and a super easy system, something DC knows nothing about. We easily found our way to the Baquedano metro station and crossed the river to Bellavista. Because it was a Saturday, the streets were filled with couples (SO MUCH PDA), families, and face-painted kiddos. We walked into Patio Bellavista, an upscale area with lots of live music, bars, and restaurants. Although kind of expensive, I can see it being a fun place to meet up with friends. When our feet began to scream, Steven and I went our separate ways on our separate buses. I felt like a true traveler (and almost Chilena) when I made my way home on the bus all by myself!

Chiqui, Miro, and I had some solid family time last night when we went to an Italian restaurant. The whole time Miro kept saying, "Que rica comida! Esta como en Itlia!" Though far from the Italian food I've had, it was delicious. I love that dinner doesn't start until 9 or 10 and that going to dinner is a serious outing. We stayed there for at least two hours, talking and eating, with lots of sharing. I'm really growing to love this family a lot. I've already started thinking about how sad I'll be to leave!

I started the day with a little run in a neighborhood park heading towards the mountains (mama, we can go when you visit!). Shortly after "mi hermano" and "su polola" came over for Sunday lunch. I showed them my Chilean slang book, "How to survive in the Chilean Jungle," which they found very funny and mostly spot on. The family and I watched the second half of the Copa America final, Uruguay vs. Paraguay. After a lonnngggg descanso (break, nap, siesta) Miro and I ventured to the mall to find me an adapter and new cell phone chip. Holy Moly! I felt like I was in the US. They had everything from their version of Home Depot to department stores to car dealerships, you could live there. It was kind of strange to be there.

Anyway, here I am, reconnected. Dinner time! Chao!

Friday, July 22, 2011

All I see are mountains


Yahooooo! I'm here! It still doesn't seem real that I will be spending the next five months here. That being said, I think I'll be able to get used to it...quickly.

The flight was rough but didn't seem too long leading me to believe I was passed out for most of it. There were several other gringos on the plane, all looking like they were doing about the same thing as I am. When we landed in Santiago the land reminded me a lot of what Boise looks like when we fly into the airport. There are nice big hills, everything's dry and looks burnt. Despite the fact everything looked scorched, man was it chilly! It's that dry cold that gets you down to the bone..no me gusta. Once I got through customs and retrieved my luggage, I was greeted by one of my best friends who is also studying in Chile, Danielle. It was crazy that we haven't seen each other in over a year and here we were screeching in the Santiago International Airport. Loco.

Then I met the fam. They welcomed me with shouts and hollers as well. "AHHHHHHH KA-TE, BIENVENIDOS!" Followed by warm hugs and kisses. Of course they insisted on carrying my luggage, all of which had "careful heavy" warning tags on them. I wasn't going to let mama Chiqui carry my big backpack but Miro insisted. Then we walked outside, it wasn't the blast of cold air that made me gasp but rather the most beautiful mountains I've ever seen in my life. I wasn't prepared for their proximity, I could almost touch them! The Andes, or as the Chileans call it "La Cordillera," are dramatic with their inclines and size but they're all currently covered in a dusting of snow that makes them seem less intimidating. As we drove they got closer and closer and I kept marveling and murmuring, "que bonita." The whole time Miro and Chiqui asking me questions and talking about Santiago, such lovely people.

When we arrived at the apartment we unloaded Miro's badass truck that he uses to navigate the mines and took the tiny elevator (all three of us with all my stuff...very cozy) up to the 7th floor. They demanded I put down my things and check out the view. And there they were again, those spectacular mountains. I feel lucky to be from Seattle and have great mountains close by but this takes the cake.

After letting me get settled in coffee and toast was served. Miro had to leave for work but me and mama Chiqui did some serious girl bonding. So far the majority of what I say is "si, ok, yeah," but I am trying! I find myself already getting frusterated but Miro and Chiqui's Spanish is not as difficult to understand as I thought it would be. Our talking continued when we went to the supermercado for some grocery shopping. I know I've only been here a few hours but I've yet to hear music that's not from the US. Taylor Swift. Coldplay. REM. Regina Spektor. Norah Jones. Talking Heads. Chris Issak. Not to mention ads for Subway, Burger King, and Harley Davidson. Globalization at it's finest.

Once we were back I got a chance to move into my room. It's great. Small with the bare essentials. Lots of shelves and drawers for the ridiculous amounts of clothing I brought, with a little desk for studying. But damn is it cold! Mama Chiqui I think could hear my teeth chattering and just brought in a space heater...great now I'm high maintenance. I think Chiqui and I are going to be just fine though. We talked about her and her husband's Croatian roots, development and inequality in Latin America, and my trip to Kenya. She's a really great lady.

I got my itinerary and it looks like this weekend is free so I assume I'll be doing a lot of this blogging stuff. I'm hoping to go for a couple runs too because apparently these are great "footing" streets.

**This photo is from my porch, "que linda, no?"

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Leaving the homeland



I can't believe I'm leaving my main man, Otis. I still haven't packed and the gray, cloudy skies of my other true love, Seattle, are making me want to escape to somewhere much warmer--not Santiago in the winter. I've been emailing my new host family and they seem like very loving folks, " Kate, te esperamos con los brazos abierto y conoceras un lindo paĆ­s con la hospitalidad latina," sounds good, no? My "dad," Miroslav (his family is Croatian-there is a large Eastern European population in Chile), has also offered words of peace to my mom and dad, "Muchos saludos a tus padres y le transmites que puedan quedarse absolutamente tranquilos cuidaremos a su hija como nuestra," pretty much meaning, "no worries real parents, stay calm, we'll take care of your one and only daughter as if she was our own." PRECIOUS!

So, the reason why I'm doing this blog is slightly selfish because I know that I'm not very good at staying in touch with individuals and communicating as much as I should. Also, I'm bad at keeping a journal so I'm hoping these blog entries will keep me slightly more focused. The title of the blog is part of my address in Santiago. Vitacura is apparently one of the nicest neighborhoods in Santiago (every time I tell someone who knows the area they say "oo-la-la!") so I'm guessing I'll at least have access to internet somewhere close by but maybe not in the house.

It still doesn't seem real that I'm actually leaving. My nerves have been slightly calmed due to the fact that I met a girl my age the other night at a party who will be on my same flight, doing a similar program through Middlebury, and we share countless mutual friends--thank you Seattle for being such a small world. I will miss the gray skies and rain, the clean air and green trees, but seriously looking forward to feeling protected by the greatness of those MASSIVE Andes mountains that will be surrounding me for five months.